The legendary river Ayeyarwaddy is the life blood of Myanmar. More remote scenery can be experienced during 12 day/ 11 night voyages through the gorges of the upper reaches of the Ayeyarwaddy. For to cruise slowly upriver on the broad brown Ayeyarwady from north of Yangon to Mandalay is to travel, very rapidly, back in time… to tiny villages sheltered beneath mango trees, to bullock-drawn ploughs and horse-drawn gigs, to women pounding laundry on river stones. And to crowded, laneway markets where garlic and knobbly tomatoes are piled high and three bunches of sweetly scented tea roses will set you back the equivalent of 20 cents. And everywhere, in every village and on almost all hilltops, golden-capped pagodas shimmer in the gauzy heat of the late dry season.